These Are the Emerging Designers to Watch at Paris Fashion Week
Get to know Marine Serre, Rokh, Koché and more.
Paris Fashion Week is well underway, with the final of the “Big Four” cities culminating its SS20 Sep 26, 2024 Dior, Saint Laurent and Louis Vuitton are set showcase their new season wares against incredible backdrops, with numerous celebrity models leading the charge. With that in mind, we’re casting our eye to some of the up-and-coming talent you need to keep on your radar this PFW.
From France’s new enfant terrible Marine Serre to London-based Rokh and Copenhagen’s design duo HELIOT EMIL, scroll below to get the lowdown of some of the most exciting emerging designers on the schedule this season.
While you’re here, don’t forget to check out our pick of London Fashion Week’s best emerging talent, too.
Marine Serre
LVMH Prize-winner Marine Serre has taken the Parisian fashion scene by storm since she debuted her intelligent take on “FUTUREWEAR.” The superstar designer’s signature moon-print has since been spotted on the fashion elite and she was even tapped by Nike as part of the female-only crew of collaborators for the 2019 FIFA Women’s World Cup. For SS20, Serre’s “MARÉE NOIRE”show saw the designer transport her guests outdoors to a gloomy, post-apocalyptic landscape where street-cast models traversed over a tarp-laden runway over ponds and reeds. Never one to shy away from the weirdness, Serre is one designer you’ll want to keep a close eye on over the coming seasons.
Rokh
The Korean-born designer at the helm of this London-based label, Rok Hwang, is a graduate of the prestigious Central Saint Martins and worked under the legendary Phoebe Philo at Céline. The Philo influence is evident in his work with Rokh, which is said by many to cater to the Philophiles mourning the demise of Phoebe’s Céline. It’s simplicity that truly makes Rokh stand out in the industry, with thoughtful deconstruction, expertly-cut silhouettes and attention to detail just some of the elements that have earned this rising star a cult following.
KOCHÉ
Alongside fellow French designer Marine Serre, Christelle Kocher was also handpicked by Nike as one of this year’s 2019 FIFA Women’s World Cup collaborators. The partnership seemed like a truly organic fit for KOCHÉ, who had previously reconstructed Paris Saint German soccer jerseys as part of her collections. This season, KOCHÉ returned with its trademark high-end, feminine twist on streetwear that’s sure to cement the brand’s status as one to watch.
HELIOT EMIL
Dubbed Baie 19 Pauline De Leon for a debut in Paris this season. Known for their utilitarian, technical aesthetic, the duo focus on muted colors and subtle textures and mixed-materials to add depth to their pieces. The edgy pieces boast hardware like silver metal carabiners and buckles as well as asymmetric silhouettes and cleverly-placed cutouts teamed with sportswear apparel, bringing to mind the “Health Goth” aesthetic of years past. Keep an eye out for the runway show on September 27 at PFW.
Ottolinger
Created by YEEZY Season 4 alumni Christa Bösch, and Cosima Gadient, Berlin-based Ottolinger encompasses all the offbeat, dystopian design sensibilities you’d expect from such a brand. Asymmetric cuts, precise draping and off-kilter tailoring defined Ottolinger’s SS20 collection which featured both muted greys and blacks alongside a cacophony of prints including a collaboration with German artist Lucie Stahl. Standout pieces included the metallic-printed denim garments and corset-esque cropped top that appeared to be made from deconstructed sneakers.
Unravel Project
Ben Taverniti’s Unravel Project has been spotted on the likes of Rihanna, Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid but aside from being a celeb-favorite label, it’s a star on the PFW schedule. Thanks to its fusion of streetwear and luxury and merging of Parisian and LA aesthetics, Unravel has cemented its status as purveyors of unorthadox yet actually wearable clothing that transcends seasonal trends.
